My Pet World: Some cats pee on couches; other cats get dive-bombed by birds | Pets


Dear Cathy: We recently noticed our rescue cat Chanel has been urinating on our couches. I attempted putting ammonia on the spots after washing them and rubbing her nose on the sites. Nothing helps. She keeps doing it. We adopted Chanel and CoCo from the identical cage at the identical shelter. We’re afraid CoCo will follow Chanel and do the identical thing. How will we stop Chanel from doing this? — Angie, Henderson, Nevada

Dear Angie: Many things can trigger improper elimination with cats, from litter-box placement, variety of litter and cleanliness to anxiety, stress or just seeing one other cat outside. Until you realize, you should have to try several things to see what works.

To start, take Chanel to your veterinarian for an exam. When animals suddenly begin urinating on furniture and other odd places, it could possibly signify a health problem or illness. Once treated, these improper eliminations should stop. Rule that out quickly so you realize what to try next.

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Next, don’t use ammonia to wash her accidents. Ammonia is a natural by-product of urine, designed to draw cats back to the precise location or tell one other cat to remain away. Whenever you clean with ammonia, you’re inviting Chanel (and potentially CoCo) to pee on the couch. (I bet you are freaking out somewhat that you just did this. Don’t; it’s a standard mistake.)

Use an enzymatic cleaner, which eats up the biologicals left within the furniture (urine, fecal matter and feces), removing all traces of the waste and odor.

Afterward, you possibly can also attempt to spray the realm with Bitter Apple (available on the pet store) to discourage them or put up a roadblock directly over the spot, like a box, to encourage them to make use of the spot for napping as an alternative. (Don’t rub your cat’s nose within the urine. I’m unsure why pet owners so widely do that, however it doesn’t work and isn’t a legitimate training technique. In truth, it could have the alternative effect.)

Keep the identical variety of boxes as cats plus one — so three boxes. Leave the lid off one among the litter boxes in case Chanel prefers to face on the sting to alleviate herself. Place the litter boxes in numerous areas since one resident cat can block one other from using a selected box. (The cat couldn’t protect all three litter boxes in the event that they are in numerous areas of the home.) Sift the litter twice every day, and use a litter-box attractant (available at pet stores) in all three boxes to assist lure Chanel back to the box.

When you suspect any of that is stress-related (Chanel saw a cat outside, you had company, you only moved, etc.), use plug-in pheromones within the room with the couch or put pheromone collars on each cats to assist take the sting off.

Dear Cathy: We feed three (spayed) feral cats in our yard and deck. They will not allow us to touch them but are depending on us for food and water. Recently, two blue jays attacked the cats. They terrorize them and won’t allow them to eat to the purpose where the cats are afraid to return into our yard. I actually have tried spraying the birds with water to maintain them away, but nothing works. There is no such thing as a place else I can feed the cats. Please help. I want some ideas on how you can handle this problem. — Dolores, Bethpage, Recent York

Dear Dolores: Whenever you say two, I hear “pair,” which tells me the birds are probably a mating pair attempting to protect their young, that are probably nearby. If that is so, the behavior will stop when their fledglings leave the nest.

Within the meantime, you’ve got two options.

First, get a dog kennel, doghouse or other covered structure in your yard, and place the cats’ food inside. This provides the cats a spot to eat without being dive-bombed by the birds.

Second, feed the cats at dusk when bird activity is minimal. Cats are nocturnal, and these birds are usually not, so moving the cats’ feeding time to early evening is a straightforward and simple solution to keep the peace.

Dear Cathy: Love your column. I need to suggest that folk with dogs who’ve trouble walking on tile or wooden flooring be certain that their pet’s paws are trimmed of hair. My sister had a husky who did higher on floors when the hair growing between his paws was trimmed. — Ciel, Andover, Connecticut

Dear Ciel: That is a very good reader tip. Thanks for sharing it. 

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